Today we will share with you a hack for your Sheona dresses and tops that are more appropriate for the colder weather. Apart from the little additions you can make, we also want to show you different ways to play around with your fabric choices. Today we will be lengthening the sleeve and adding cuffs to a Sheona top in a contrasting fabric.
Here’s what you’ll need:
-your Sheona top pattern
-a large piece of paper
-a straight ruler
-a pen or a pencil and a pair of scissors
-a sewing machine and/or overlocker and your basic sewing tools
The Sheona dress and top pattern comes with 2 sleeve options, one for short and one for 3/4 length. However, it is REALLY easy to turn your sleeves into full length for the colder months. What you need to do is position the pattern piece on your arm and determine how much length you will need to add. In this case, because we wanted to add a cuff at the sleeve’s hem, we added 8 cm (if you are not adding cuffs, don’t forget to take into account the hem allowance for your sleeves and add it accordingly).
Trace your original sleeve piece on a piece of paper, transfer all the marking and add the extra length. Cut your new pattern piece.
Then, we are going to draft a piece for our cuffs, which is basically a little rectangle. The length of your cuff is totally up to you. We wanted ours to be 5 cm long. Since we are going to fold the cuff in half when attaching it to the sleeve, we will need to double that number and add the seam allowance. In this case, since we wanted a cuff that would be 5 cm long, the length of the rectangle had to be 5 x 2 =10 plus 2 cm seam allowance = 12 cm.
For the width, you want your cuff to be slightly smaller than the sleeve hem, because you are going to stretch it when attaching it (in the same way as when you are attaching a neck band). Again, this is personal preference, but a general rule is to make the sleeve’s width around 20% smaller than the sleeve hem. The sleeve hem on the pattern piece measured 23 cm so the cuff’s width was 18,4 +2 cm for the seam allowance = 20,2 cm.
So to sum up, for our cuff we had to draft a rectangle that would measure 12 cm long and 20,2 cm wide. It is also helpful to mark two notches at the sides, right in the middle to help you when folding the piece.
Go ahead and cut out your pieces out of the fabric you chose as per the instructions booklet of your Sheona dress. For the cuff, you are going to need 2 pieces.
Follow the instructions for the Sheona top and sew it up, until you reach the step for hemming the sleeves.
To construct the cuffs, take on piece and fold it in half, matching the notches. Sew the side with your usual 1 cm seam allowance. Press the seam allowances open. Do the same for the second cuff.
Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, wrong sides together and matching the raw edges. Turn your Sheona top right sides out and slip the cuff over the sleeve, right sides together and matching the raw edges. Make sure that the seam on your cuff matches the seam of your sleeve and pin all around, slightly stretching the cuff around the sleeve hem. Stitch with a zigzag stitch or your overlocker.
And that’s it! Easy, wasn’t it?
For this version, we opted to use a plain navy jersey for the cuffs and neckband to add some interest to the garment. We really like this little detail!
We hope you enjoyed seeing both variations. The fabrics we used for all of them are from Girl Charlee. More specifically, the blue version is this one, which is the softest jersey we’ve ever worked with, while the mustard one is their cotton spandex which comes in many many colors.