In this tutorial Sonia will be showing you how to create a fabulous Abi and Sheona mashup.
Hi friends, I’m excited for you to join me today on this fun Abi Jumpsuit + Sheona Top mashup! I love the Abi jumpsuit, but thought it would be fun to add the inset sleeve of the Sheona top for a twist on the pattern! Following this style also lowers the neckline slightly, as we replace the neck band with a facing. To complete this hack, you will need both patterns. Let’s get started!
Step one is to trace your Abby jumpsuit bodice with tracing paper. I always do hacks this way because I do not want to alter the original pattern, and it’s much easier to overlay pattern pieces with transparent paper.
Once your Abi Jumpsuit bodice back is traced, overlay the Sheona back bodice. Because I did not want to change the slope of the shoulder or bodice height, I matched the bodice at the shoulder seam and the fold/center line.
The Sheona top bodice is slightly narrower at the waist, so after tracing the arm hole, I used a French curve to grade from the bottom of the arm hole out to the Abi waist (but this can also be sketched by hand). I did this because I didn’t want to change the darts in the bodice, so this leaves the waist the same as it was originally. ALSO!!! You must add a quarter inch seam allowance to the neckline of the back bodice, since we will be to attaching a facing to it (this is not pictured!)
Photo four shows the altered bodice, with our changes in red.
Repeat for Front bodice (without added seam allowances). DO NOT cut out the front bodice yet!
Using a ruler, trace a second line along the front edge of the bodice, which will become the facing. I made mine the width of my ruler, which is 1.5 inches. Make sure to follow the line of the front bodice, as it is curved so you’re facing line should not be straight. (you will notice that we don’t add a seam allowance for this facing, and that is because it is attached, so there is a fold there and no seam making a seam allowance unnecessary.)
Add a dovetail at the top of the front bodice facing tilting up, so that when you fold the facing down, it will be included in the shoulder seam. You want the facing to catch in the shoulder seam so that it stays put when worn, and this dovetail does just that. You can also angle the bottom of the facing up, or leave it straight and trim it later.
Our final pattern piece is the facing for the back bodice. Trace the top 6 inches or so of your new back bodice as a guide, and using the ruler, trace a facing that is the same width as the facing you created for your front bodice, PLUS seam allowance of .25”
This photo shows that your facing should fit perfectly on top of your back bodice.
Now we have our altered pattern pieces: both a front and back bodice, and a back facing.
Cut your fabric for your front bodice, and trace the facing line. Remember that this line has a slight curve to it.
Iron your facing toward the wrong side of your fabric, and clip or baste in place. The curve isn’t steep enough to justify cutting notches in the curve, so ironing helps the fabric mirror that slight curve. Repeat for other bodice piece.
Sew your facing to your back bodice along the neckline, with right sides together.
With right sides together, attach front bodices to back bodice, with facings open. Since our facings are the same height, edges will match.
Fold the facing towards the inside of the bodice, wrong sides together and pin.
Next, stitch in the ditch along the seam to secure the facing inside the bodice.
Finally, I recommend using a zig zag stitch to understitch the seam to the back facing, which will help it stay inside.
From here on out, construct the jumpsuit per instructions, just adding your Sheona sleeve in before sewing the side seams!
Congratulations on your beautiful new romper, both of these patterns are stunning and make such a good mash up! See this sew, along with other makes of mine at my Instagram account.