Hi everyone! In the previous post we finished the bodice of our Suzy dress. Today we are going to create the skirt and attach the pockets.
The first thing to keep in mind is that for the next few step we are going to be using a seam allowance of 1.5 cm (5/8″) instead of the 1 cm (3/8″) that we were using so far.
Take the front left skirt piece (D) and on its right hand side (as if you were wearing your dress) find the notch that is close to the hem (marked as slit).
Fold that part towards the inside by 1.5 cm (5/8”), wrong sides together and press. Topstitch it in place using a straight stitch, leaving the part from the slit upwards unstitched.
Place the front left skirt piece (D) on top of the front right skirt piece (C), right sides together along the middle part and pin from the waistline all the way down to the slit, matching the notches there. Stitch in place with 1.5 cm (5/8”) seam allowance.
From the wrong side of the skirt, press the seam allowance towards the piece C and continue pressing all the way down to the hem, folding the remaining edge of the slit on the piece C towards the inside by 1.5 cm (5/8”).
Now working from the right side of the skirt, on the front right skirt piece (C), topstitch the seam allowance down using a straight stitch and a 1 cm (3/8”) seam allowance. Continue the stitching line all the way down to the hem in order to finish the slit edge at the same time.
In the next step, we are going to attach the pockets. Your Suzy dress has optional in-seam pockets. Before you sew them on, make sure that you have
transferred all the marks from the pocket pattern piece on your fabric Place one of the pocket pieces on one of the front skirt pieces, right sides together, matching the notches.
Stitch the pocket to the skirt using a 1 cm (3/8”) seam allowance and a zigzag stitch or your overlocker. Press the seam allowance towards the pocket. Repeat the same steps for the other front skirt pocket and for the two pockets on the back skirt piece.
Put the front skirt piece on top of the back skirt piece, right sides together, aligning the side seams, pocket pieces and notches. Using a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine, start sewing from the waist down to the first dot of the pocket opening and backstitch. Then start sewing from the hem all the way up to the other dot of the pocket opening and backstitch. Essentially you are leaving a gap between the two dots.
Then sew all around your pocket bag leaving the top part (at the waist) unstitched. Repeat the same process for the other side.
Stitch the top part of your pockets to the front skirt piece at the waistline to keep them in place, staying inside the 1 cm (3/8”) seam allowance so that your stitching line is not visible from the outside. Give everything a good press.
If you don’t want to add pockets to your Suzy dress, then sew the skirt side seams as follows: place the front skirt piece on top of the back skirt piece right sides together and pin both the side seams. Stitch them with your usual 1 cm (3/8”) seam allowance and press.
Take the finished bodice and make sure it’s right sides out. Turn your skirt so that the wrong side is on the outside. Place the skirt over the bodice, right sides together, matching at the waistline, as seen on the illustrations below. Match them at the side seams and secure everything in place with pins. Stitch all around the waistline using a zigzag stitch or your overlocker (serger) and press.
And with this step we have completed the most part of the garment. What is left now is to attach the elastic and hem everything, which is what we’ll do in the next part of our sewalong. Stay tuned!